True, the Caribbean doesn’t qualify as the perfect paradise for gay visitors. Old Fidel has made it perfectly clear that he doesn’t want any rainbow-flying tourists in Cuba, and in Jamaica gay travellers actually have to fear for their lives. But there is also another side to the Caribbean. In Puerto Rico for example. As the smallest island in the Antilles (which consists of Haiti, Cuba, Jamaica and the Dominican Republic), Puerto Rico is noticeably more tolerant and more liberal than the rest of the region.

Puerto Rico’s former Governor Anibal Acevedo Vila admittedly had to deal with a petition from conservative Christians years ago who wanted to prohibit gay marriage for all time through a change in federal law. But Acevedo seemed to rather take it in his stride. “I told the church leaders that I wished for initiatives that would bring people together rather than divided them,” he said afterwards.

Since 1952 the country has been a member of the American Commonwealth. Following the end of the Spanish-American war in 1898, the US snapped the 9,000m2 island up. For the five decades that followed the country existed as a Spanish-speaking colony of the US. It wasn’t until 1952 that the first democratic elections took place on the island, but to this day the link between the US and Puerto Rico remains very strong – as is obvious from the national flags of both countries which fly side by side in front of official buildings and military service which takes place under direction of the Pentagon. Strangely though, although Puerto Ricans are entitled to US passports (with much pride, it should be added) they aren’t allowed to cast their vote in elections.

The country also doesn’t want to be completely independent from the US, politically speaking. In a recent survey 45% of respondents said they’d like to keep the link between the countries as it is while a further 45% wished to be integrated into the USA as its 51st state. A measly 4% said they’d prefer the country to be politically autonomous. “Compared to other countries in the Caribbean our economy is booming,” says Hector, 43, a tour guide on the island. American perfection meets Caribbean flair is something regularly visible on the streets. This “flair” can especially be experienced in the old town of Old San Juan, which largely echoes the character of Havana – from the Spanish artwork, narrowly winding alleyways and flagstone roads to the multitude of churches, monasteries and bars. There is just one major difference: Everything here is neatly renovated, spotless and clean.

American tourist cruises are welcomed with opened arms. The massive ocean liners with thousands of passengers aboard chug in and out of the harbour of San Juan on a daily schedule. Some of them stay for only a few hours, others for a day or two. Not surprisingly then that the harbour is lined with chic jewellery stores, illustrious fashion shops and scores of street merchants proffering a plethora of knickknacks, but never in an unpleasant way. Finally there are the gorgeous cocktails, with a Piña Colada costing a mere two dollars. None of the sellers are persistent or forceful and you can stroll through the streets, alleyways and squares free of harassment. The impressive El Morro and San Cristobal fortresses, located behind the old town, offer an imposing view of the island’s history. For centuries these fortresses were the stronghold of the Spaniards against invading ships from England, France, Holland and the USA. Today they are World Heritage Sites.

You can thoroughly explore the old town of San Juan in two days without rushing yourself. It is gorgeous and you get to experience a lot abut the city’s history, but there is little on offer with regards to what modern day Puerto Rico is about: breathtaking rain forests, first class beaches and gay nightlife. That is why we’d recommended you rather book your accommodation in the Condado borough of the city. Especially if you are keen to explore some of the gay bars and clubs. Most of the pink establishments have settled in Condados’ Santurce quarter – a colourful hodgepodge of business, art and leisure. Those keen on exploring the gay scene doesn’t get to escape this lively quarter.

The main anchor of the city’s gay night scene is club Krash. A number of well-known celebrities have visited Krash over the years, which has helped the club to establish recognition far beyond the country’s borders. No names are named, at least not officially. But Puerto Rico has been responsible for its fair share of international stars and starlets. Owner Cindy, 40 and straight, is personally present from Wednesdays until Saturdays: “I have to see what my kids get up to,” she confesses with a sly smile. At the moment the well established club is especially popular on Wednesdays and Thursday. That’s when Krash plays Reggaeton (a mix of Reggae, HipHop and Dancehall). On both days the crowd is pretty young, which isn’t exactly surprising once you learn that those who arrive in good time get in for free and that there’s a 2-for-1 drinks offer to help make the most of the night.

Cindy is a personable and competent business woman. More than ten years ago she relocated from Canada to San Juan. Although she owns the largest and most prestigious gay club in the city, she struggles to describe the Puerto Rican gay scene with sentences like “You know what, everybody tries to make the most of their bar and club”. Whether she is unable or just unwilling to divulge a lot about the other bars is hard to tell. For the past months Krash’s biggest competitor, Starz, has been honing in on its territory. That is where the party crowd heads on Fridays and Saturday. “We are currently working on a different concept for Saturday night,” Cindy retorts somewhat vaguely and rather diplomatically.

David, a 44-year old reveller in Krash, looks as if he has experienced a good number of parties in his lifetime. He is constantly fidgeting with his massive bunch of keys and is noisily slurping the last drops from his cocktail glass. David shrugs his shoulders. “The arrival of the internet hasn’t passed San Juan’s gay scene without having an effect. Just have a look at what’s happening on the Manhunt website every night,” he mumbles and pulls a face as if he desires nothing more than the start of the weekend. “Hey, if you really want to let your hair loose you have to make sure you get out on Saturday night. During the week the clubs are ok, but nothing like in Miami.”

And what about erotica? And sex? Until the end of last year visitors could rid themselves of some sexual tension in the Steamworks sauna, which used to be located in Old San Juan. But that has now closed down. According to rumours the owners are currently looking for a new location for the sauna. In Santurce. Where else?

Don’t despair if you feel that Santurce is somewhat short on the typical Puerto Rican summer, sun and beach experience and you don’t have the strength for the tourists in Condado. Ocean Park is the name of the solution. This alternative beach district, which actually borders Condado, is small and more than a little pleasant. Many of the hotels, restaurants and bars operating there are firmly in gay and lesbian ownership – even if that doesn’t mean they present themselves as 100% LGBT hotspots.

At all costs, however, you should avoid doing yourself the injustice of spending every waking moment on the beach at Ocean Park and partying the nights away in the Santurce clubs. A visit to the Bacardi Rum distillery and a day visit to the tropical rain forests of El Yunque should definitely form part of your itinerary – at the very least. The rainforest is located only an hour by car from the capital. There you can walk on marked trails through the boundless green and listen to the sounds of the El Coqui tree frog, or allow yourself to be mesmerised by the impressive waterfalls. On the way home from El Yunque you should definitely take a break at the Belz Outlet Mall, for seriously discounted prices on real (!) labels like Calvin Klein, Nike and Tommy Hilfiger.

At the Bacardi distillery (located about 20 minutes by car from Old San Juan) you can brush up on your knowledge on the process of making the world famous rum – from the century old history to the modern production and the current taste. A large bar invites visitors to personally sample the gorgeous cocktail creations, and although tours generally take place in the morning and midday, it is advisable to enthusiastically make use of the offer. Nobody will blame you for returning to San Juan somewhat tipsy. Quite the opposite, in fact. The Puerto Ricans are understandably proud of their world famous Bacardi Rum. Those who report in enthusiastically tipsy words on their visit to the Bacardi distillery, are quickly taken into the locals hearts. Want to bet?